Pigment selection is where good cosmetic tattoo work is won or lost. The wrong choice can heal ashy, warm or grey; the right one heals true and ages gracefully. Here's how we teach pigment selection — minus the jargon.
Organic vs inorganic pigments
You'll hear these terms constantly, so let's clear them up:
- Inorganic (iron-oxide) pigments are typically softer and more muted. They're often preferred for natural-looking brows and clients who want subtlety, and they tend to fade more predictably.
- Organic (carbon-based) pigments are usually brighter and more saturated, holding well for bold work and vivid lip and eyeliner colours.
In practice, most modern professional pigments — including Amiea EVO 2 and Organicline — use a hybrid formulation engineered for stability and predictable healing, giving you the best of both.
Match the pigment to the skin, not just the swatch
The colour in the bottle is not the colour that heals. Two things drive your choice:
Fitzpatrick skin type
Deeper skin types carry more warmth and can pull pigments warm as they heal, so you'll often reach for cooler-based or corrective shades. Lighter skin types may need warmth added so brows don't heal too grey or ashy.
Undertone (warm vs cool)
Read your client's undertone and choose a pigment that counterbalances any unwanted shift — this is the difference between brows that stay beautiful for years and ones that turn a strange colour by the six-week check.
By procedure
- Brows: the Amiea EVO 2 range is built for natural, predictable brow results across skin tones.
- Lips & eyeliner: the Amiea Organicline range delivers rich, stable colour for lip blush and eyeliner.
How long will it last?
Pigment choice also affects longevity — generally, cosmetic tattoo lasts 1–3 years before a refresh, with brows tending to last longer than lips and eyeliner. Skin type, sun exposure and aftercare all play a part.
Not sure which shades to start with? Because we test our pigment range through a working training academy, we can help you build a palette that suits your technique and clientele. Shop PMU pigments or get in touch.